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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.